023: The New Drop: From Streetwear to Seeds, Urns and Cookies
By now everyone and their grandma knows what a 'Drop' is. We've previously done a mini-history of the drop in a streetwear context. Generally people instinctively associate the Drop with an otaku manner of consumption. Camping in queues for trainers and the like. But in recent years, the drop model has been finding new leases of life away from the Supremes, Palaces and Corteizs of the world, in categories distant from streetwear (don't worry we're not going to bore you with NFTs).
In its fresh iterations, the Drop is not just for otakus, something we were reminded of when reading this edition of Kyle Chayka's excellent newsletter 'One Thing'.
The New Drops
We've collated four examples of what we mean below. We think these examples are interesting as they illustrate why Drops are still so relevant:
- Scarcity is not always about 'limited edition', there's other ways it can be achieved
- Drops are about training customers so they anticipate them
- Drops can be either singular products or collections
- There's a breadth of customers that can be reached through Drops
- There's so much power in repetition and creating variations on a theme
Small Batch Seeds
Seeds?!! It's a far way from streetwear. We've been intrigued about Row7 for quite some time, as it leans heavily into breeding for flavour. Dan Barber generally does some interesting stuff. #SeedHaul
Companies | Row7 | Floret Farm | Second Generation Seeds | Experimental Farm Network |
---|---|
Scarcity Models | Early-Stage Innovation | Scarce Raw Materials | Handcrafted Goods |
Who's Buying | People with 'back-to-the-land' hobbies or career switches. The strategist turned ceramicist pipeline. |
The Drop | The season's latest seed, which is either being carefully bred, or from small family farms with a focus on quality. |
Cadence | Arrives in your inbox or via Instagram. Seed heads are a small community so it's easy to drive hype. Follows both the rhythm of either product development, and the planting calendar |
Sourced Vintage Homewares
Olive Ateliers draws lines around the block in the LA heat for their releases of terracota urns, distressed wooden furniture and wonky blown glass vases. They've managed to build a killer hype model, that leans on learnings from Supreme but is not about 'limited edition'.
Companies | Olive Ateliers | Lone Fox Home | Elsie Green |
---|---|
Scarcity Model | Discontinued Products | Vintage Items with Cultural Value |
Who's Buying | Kim Kardashian, Elsa Hosk et al shop at Olive Ateliers. Kendall Jenner's just done a collab with them. |
The Drop | Vintage homewares which they scour the world to source, which are then handily brought back to LA and displayed for you. |
Cadence | Online and in-person. Drops are announced via Instagram, email, text message, and our website. Once they're gone they're gone. Releases are weekly, and the shop is only open Weds-Sat. In the time in between, the shop is remerchandised. |
Hype Luxury Cookies
Cookies variety used to be chocolate chip, oatmeal and raisin, sugar, peanut butter and not much more. There's a new breed of cookie in town that's thoroughly indulgent and priced accordingly.
Companies | Crumbl | Last Crumb | Chip City |
---|---|
Scarcity Model | Manufactured Scarcity | Artisanal Scarcity |
Who's Buying | People who film reaction videos on TikTok. Conspicuous consumers, who are drawn by the high price tags. Generally, it skews female and Gen-Z / Millenial. |
The Drop | On Crumbl it's always six new cookies, often themed around yearly markers - e.g. Mother's Day. |
Cadence | The menu rotates weekly, with all six items changing Releases are teased out on all their socials (they're everywhere IG, TikTok, Youtube, X). |
Not Yet Industrialised Apparel
Brands that are experimenting with materials and innovative manufacturing often release prototypes to the public in small numbers. These experimental Doing this consistently creates a constant narrative of progress and testing. They create waitlists for their product.
Companies | Vollebak | Nike ISPA | Stone Island Prototype Research | Outlier |
---|---|
Scarcity Model | Prototype or Experimental Goods | Early-Stage Innovation | Technologically Sophisticated Manufacturing | Advanced Materials and Construction |
Who's Buying | Tends to be a bit dude-centric, but notably different to streetwear. More misanthropic. dude-centric |
The Drop | Generally the drops will be collections themed around a particular innovation, whether that is a material (e.g. Dyneema) or a manufacturing technique (e.g. glueless). |
Cadence | Less frequent, but the consumer has high-interest so is often signed up via mailing lists etc. Normally done online rather than in-person. Members usually get early access. |
Assorted Links
- Apple misjudged the sentiment around it's iPad advert, but still everyone's talking about Apple. Is this a win or a lose? Warren Buffet has trimmed Berkshire Hathaway's position in AAPL and store staff in Maryland may strike.r
- The BBC asked why Sweden has more dollar billionaires relative to population size than anywhere else in the world. Especially for a country with high taxation.
- Great sleep is the biggest flex nowadays. Eight Sleep has become the mattress brand that Lewis Hamilton, Zuck, Elon et al go to. They've just announced their latest mattresses. Not sure why they merchandise them with bachelor shade of black sheets though.
- Substack has ramped up its video ambitions in a bid to lure TikTok stars. They've publicly dismissed the notion that this has anything to do with the TikTok ban.
- TikTok is rewiring Gen-Z's money brain. There's a handy neologism to describe this, 'money dsymorphia'. TikTok is rewiring the way they spend, save and view their financial prospects.
- Netflix's latest attempt at live television has just had a week-long run. John Mulaney Presents: Everybody's in LA streamed (very much ) live on the platform last week. We seem to have gone full circle back to live TV. Apart from you can watch it back straight after.
- Social media's favourite olive oil Graza has launched refill cans. Probably a relatively good way of fending of sustainability chatter if your main business is squeezy plastic.
- Shein has amped up preparations for a London listing after encountering hurdles towards listing in the US. 'Pushback from US lawmakers'. Does this feel political? Or is this really to do with labour practice etc.
- Burberry is due to report its annual results on tomorrow (Weds 15th) and has issued a profit warning. CEO Jonathan Akeroyd is bullish on his srategy of putting 'Britishness' at the heart of the business. The clothes don't seem to be selling though. Supernova check on everything doesn't quite hit right.
- Dior and Stone Island have announced a collab. A bit heavy handed on the branding but the clothes look pretty wearable. No surprises when Drake starts rocking these.